1. Put the red wine in a saucepan with the orange or lemon, sugar, bayleaf and the spices.
2. Heat gently until the sugar has dissolved, around 20 minutes, but avoid boiling. At this point taste to see if you want the wine sweeter, and add more sugar to taste. Add the orange or lemon peel.
3. Off the heat add the brandy if using.
4. When the wine is steaming and the ingredients are well mixed, strain and ladle into the heatproff glasses and serve at once.
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